by Stuck in Customs

Best Boots For Coast Hiking Trails And Tours

The terrain on most any coast can be extreme, but the range of conditions that feet can see in the temperate regions is phenomenal.  The terrain is not likely to be totally dry, even after long dry spells.  Coastal hiking in temperate regions means mud, and plenty of it.  Coasts where softwood trees grow also means a lot of exposed root systems to climb over and through.  Directly on the coastal shoreline means rocky areas and sandy areas.  And there are often streams to ford.  Add slippery boardwalk into this recipe, and you have the classic West Coast Trail experience, now also available, and more so, on the new North Coast Trail on Vancouver Island.  So, how do feet-and bodies-cope with this wide variety of conditions?  The boots have a huge impact.

Coastal hiking is akin to extended backpacking or lighter mountaineering.  Boots designed for this activity are generally considered Class C, which makes them noticeably heavier and stiffer than mid-weight hiking boots.  These boots have some special construction features:  toe caps, cemented outsoles, molded midsoles, ankle height, stiff shanks, and waterproof design.

These heavier boots provide the best level of support, protection, and durability for heavier loads and longer trips. If you are carrying a backpack on extended trips, your boots need to be designed to supports heavy loads of approximately 40+ pounds. Both the West Coast Trail and the North Coast Trail put you on the trail for more than three days with a moderate to heavy pack, and since this is demanding terrain, an extended (heavy weight) backpacking boot is appropriate. If you are considering other hikes that involve glacier travel, you may need to attach crampons.  You will need to check that the boots are compatible before you buy. Even hiking at slightly higher elevations in coastal mountains can make for cold-weather.  For cold-weather hiking it’s critical to get waterproof insulated boots that breathe to keep you dry, but these are not really necessary for walking lower trails near the coastal shores.

The support given to the ankle and foot are mostly from the stiffness and durability of the shank that runs the length of the boot under the foot, not from the high ankle height of the boot.  The shank is the main support system in a boot.  High tops can provide a little extra support alongside the shank, but not much.  So, what do those high tops do?

High tops help prevent ankle abrasions from scree and loose rock and branches, and they help keep water from entering the boot in low water conditions.   Keeping water out is very important.  Long hikes with wet boots can cause increased abrasion and blistering from friction inside the boots, as well as rapid fungal growth.  Alongside the high-top boots, a pair of gaiters is really necessary for coastal trails.  Gaiters cannot prevent water from entering boots from the top in deep puddles, but they can keep the system dry in water levels slightly higher than the boot top if you are moving through at a relatively quick pace.  The waterproofing on your boots is good for low water, below boot height; the gaiters help to extend this protection a bit over the boot top.  Sometimes, it is just unavoidable:   that puddle was deeper than you thought, your sandal blew out before the creek ford, etc.  After the boots are wet inside, it is up to you then to manage the wet by changing socks and attempting to keep your feet dry, perhaps by lining the inside of the boots with a thin plastic bag, until you can get them off and dry them out.  Wet skin is more fragile than dry skin.  Preventing wetness helps prevent blisters and open sores.  The fit of your boot is the other factor in preventing blisters and sores.

New boots designed for rugged terrain will feel stiff but they should still be comfortable. An extra sock on a smaller foot can adjust the fit if you need slightly different sizes for each foot, but get boots big enough to fit the largest foot properly, not the smallest foot. Always wear your boots to break them in before any trip.  This also goes for old, worn-in hiking boots.  They may have changed or your feet may have changed since the last trip.  Try them out before you leave.

Lace up your hiking boots snugly. The ball and arch of your foot should feel snug but you should be able to curl your toes without pain. Your should be able to move your toes up and down and have room in front so they don’t get pressed into the front of the boot on descents. Your heel should be securely cupped and not move excessively or feel like it’s floating. Breaking your new boots in will take weeks.  The pressure of your foot in the boot must mold and shape the boot to form fit your foot.  With denser materials in heavy hiking boots, this takes some time, perhaps 80+ kilometers.  Before you go, try a good two to three hour hike with your pack loaded to see if anything is heating up or hurting.

Make sure you break them in before you go on a trip. Light-weight hiking boots need a shorter break in. And if you’re a serious hiker heavy-weight boots can take 50+ miles, so you’ll definitely want to break them in. Take a few 10 mile day hikes before you go on a long trip.  Before we end this discussion, let’s take a brief look at the parts of your boots.

Gusseted Tongue- A gusseted tongue simply is attached to both sides of the boot. It helps prevent scree, dirt, and water from getting into your hiking boots to cause irritation.

Heel- Your hiking boots should have a slightly padded Achilles indentation for comfort, put there to avoid chafing your Achilles tendon area above your heel.

Insole- The insole sits directly underneath your foot inside the boot and is the main shock absorber for your foot.  Most insoles can be removed and replaced.  You might want to customize your boots with special insoles that give more shock absorption

Mid-sole- The part of the sole just above the out-sole and below the insole. This layer also acts as a shock absorber and may consist of EVA (expanded vinyl acetate) which offers a softer ride but wears quickly or polyurethane which offers a firmer ride and lasts longer.

Out-sole- The outer part of the sole made of rubber or Vibram that provides grip. Deeper lugs provide more aggressive traction for steep grades and off-trail excursions. Dual-density offer a combination of durability and grip.

Shank- Usually made of nylon or steel, the shank provides support for your arch. Some shanks are lighter nylon, and some are heavier steel.  The stiffer and more durable the shank, the less likelihood of ankle twists and sprains.

Toe Box and bumper- This is the area around the toes.  A bumper here helps protect against toe impacts and abrasions.

Uppers- This is the part of the boot that’s above and attached to the sole by cement or stitching. It can be made of full-grain leather, split-grain leather (suede), Nubuck suede (full-grain leather that’s been sanded to resemble suede), or fabric. Full-grain leather holds up the best, is the most supportive, and is very resistant to water.  The construction of the uppers also contributes to waterproofing.

Considering coastal hikes like the West Coast Trail or the North Coast Trail, good quality, reliable boots are essential.  These boots need to be supportive for the rugged terrain, water proof to the top in construction, and need to have a proper, comfortable fit.  These trails require multiple days with considerable weights in the backpack, so they need to be broken in well to prevent blisters and injury.  Additional help with water-proofing can be found by wearing gaiters over the boots.  At the end of the day, the hiking boots you wear can make or break a trip.